Vladimir Polenov – Jamdown Sundown. My whispered chronicles of the Caribbean (страница 1)

Jamdown Sundown

My whispered chronicles of the Caribbean

Vladimir Polenov

© Vladimir Polenov, 2025

ISBN 978-5-0068-0391-6

Created with Ridero smart publishing system

Jamaica… When we say this word, we all involuntarily associate it with a tropical paradise, the gentle Caribbean Sea, the best coffee in the world, which is born in the unique microclimate of the Jamaican Blue Mountains, which owe their name to the fog of this color that surrounds them in the mornings, with excellent local rum – perhaps the most tangible today (at least to taste) reminder of the island as a former haven for pirates.

And, of course, the names that come to mind are Bob Marley (what would reggae music be without him!), Usain “Lightning” Bolt (multiple Olympic champion, the fastest man on earth), and perhaps Robertino Loretti, who almost 55 years ago performed the unforgettable “Ja-a-a-maika” that is still so sweet for all residents of the USSR (which, however, for some reason no one knows on the island that was sung by the then very young Italian!).

Everyone who comes there – for business or pleasure – instantly shakes off all their worries and anxieties. Peace, relaxation, peace of mind, unhurried movements, activities and thoughts – this is what distinguishes the Jamaican, typically Caribbean rhythm of life from the tense, crazy, often senseless in their bustle everyday life of European countries, and even the United States, neighboring Jamaica.

The National Tourist Board describes the Caribbean island’s appeal in a similar way: “Jamaica is more than just a tourist destination. It is"a special feeling, it’s a set of impressions… Jamaica is a place where people come to get a positive charge, it’s a force that allows the world to feel more in order by sharing its rhythms, energy and spirit with it.”

It is probably no coincidence that in the current ranking of the 25 most popular tourist destinations in the world, according to the authoritative Internet portal “Tripadvisor”, Jamaica is in 12th place (St. Petersburg, by the way, is in 14th place).

Wars and armed conflicts, which, unfortunately, are so “rich” in our modern world, seem very distant from there, from Jamaica, sometimes even unrealistic, although the World War II did not pass the Jamaicans by: many of them fought against Nazism, mainly as part of the British Air Force (Jamaica at that time was under the colonial rule of London, which was ordered to live long in 1962, but to this day the formal head of this state remains (the King of Great Britain). Of course, there are not many veterans of that war left on the island now (according to some sources, no more than 150 people), but they are still held in high esteem there. The Russian embassy does not forget to invite them to its events on the occasion of May 9.

Many of the world’s most famous Englishmen were passionately fond of Jamaica. Winston Churchill, after resigning as British Prime Minister, spent months living in a luxury suite at the Jamaica Inn in Ocho Rios, eagerly and with undeanible talent transferring the island’s wondrous landscapes onto canvas.

Ian Fleming, who settled in Jamaica after the war (his father has been close with Churchill), was there when he began writing the first James Bond novel, “Casino Royale,” in 1952 from his residence – now one of the island`s most exclusive hotels – GoldenEye near Oracabessa.

Fleming remains a cult figure to this day: close to his former estate stands Jamaica`s third most important international airport, named after him (primarily serving private aviation), while the island boasts a sizeable public James Bond beach on its northeastern coast – respectably equipped for Jamaican standards.

The paradise island has many other notable features. For example, it was in this country that the world’s first beauty Lisa Hannah (the third Jamaican to occupy the prestigious “throne” in 1993) was nominated almost 20 years later for the post of Minister of Culture and Youth Affairs in the government of the People’s National Party (now in opposition). Here, too, cabinet ministers past and present have included Rastafarians – followers of the Rastafari movement), easily identified by their iconic dreadlocks woven like felt (remember Bob Marley again).

Jamaica is also known for the fact that the main language there is not so much “classical” English, but its local dialect (in the perception of the proud inhabitants of the island, this is a full-fledged independent language) Patois. It is not very understandable for the uninitiated, but if you learn a couple of phrases in Patois and demonstrate this modest knowledge to the Jamaicans, then you can be sure that they have such knowledge the excitement about the “secret” will cause genuine delight and exclamations of praise.

Jamaicans are generally exceptionally friendly, smiling and welcoming by nature, always ready to help guests of the island, including those who do not know English. The signature style and philosophy of life of its inhabitants is “Jamaica – no problem.” No problem, and that’s it! This is a universal key phrase to the Jamaican soul, much like the common expression “ya man” or “ya mon” (philologists still debate the best way to convey the sounds of this equally unique island expression, meaning both agreement and affirmation without any specification or simply a statement of something in various contexts).

Of course, behind the outward carefree nature of Jamaican life lurk some rather pressing issues for the state and society, as is often the case. While in 2009 Jamaica held an honourable third place in the so-called World Happiness Index, by 2016, it had slipped to 73rd – a change that, admittedly, was unsurprising. There are many reasons for this. These include an overwhelmingly high crime rate (Jamaica is among the top five countries with the highest number of murders – three a day, although they occur mainly in their own, criminal environment, bandits generally leave tourists alone – why harm the hand that feeds you?). And of course don`t forget the corruption – common not just in the “third world” countries – and domestic violence. Jamaicans have proven themselves to be the “kings” of the so-called lottery scams, having illegally swindled over a billion US dollars in recent years from disoriented elderly Americans who believed the telephone fairy tale about a “super win” in Jamaican state lottery, which, of course, does not exists. As the saying goes, there`s a black sheep in every flock.

But amid all this, Jamaica remains a captivating island for lovers of exoticism, warm seas, and magnificent beaches, as well as fans of Bob Marley and Usain Bolt, boasting its own unique character and remarkable, colourful people who are easily recognizable even beyond Jamaica`s shores.

We, Russians, are respected and loved there, guided by the universal foreign policy formula “we are friends to all and enemies to none,” and remembering over 40 years of friendship and cooperation – though some sources claim this history as fat longer and more diverse. But more on that later.

One can only hope that those unfamiliar with Jamaica will, upon reading this book, form their first impressions of the island and its inhabitants – and possibly feel inspired to embark on their own journey there. However, merely dreaming of Jamaica, I believe, can warm the soul on our long autumn and winter evenings, fostering a positive outlook and offering an escape into tropical fantasy.

“Jamaica, no problem!” Or, as the unforgettable Robertino Loretti sang: “Jamaica! Jamaica! Under your beautiful tropical skies, I want to live and die!”

Well, we’ve already lived our share there…

Part one:

Just the Facts

Keeper of the Waterfall

My first experience in Jamaica was as an ordinary passenger aboard a 16-deck cruise liner making leisurely touring the Caribbean islands with a stop in Caracas.

The “Star Princess” docked confidently at the port of Ocho Rios – one of Jamaica`s three main resort towns, not the largest but perhaps the coziest in the eyes of both tourists and locals. For staff of the Russian Embassy, Ocho Rios is the closest “beach” destination to the capital, Kingston (just over an hour’s drive along a modern – toll – motorway built by the Chinese).

Incidentally, Ocho Rios was never actually crossed by those “eight rivers” that gave the charming town its Spanish name, near which Christopher Columbus is believed to have set foot on the island once again on June 20, 1503 (after its discovery in 1494).

It`s thought the settlement was originally named by its discoverer “Las Chorreras” (meaning “waterfalls”, as it`s home to the island`s most famous cascades, Dunn’s River). The English, who invaded Jamaica in 1655 and defeated two years later the Spanish at the Battle of Las Chorreras, simply adapted the acoustically challenging word.

The very the name “Jamaica” is believed to derive from itself comes from “Xaymaka” (“land of wood and water”) in the language of the Arawak Indians who inhabited the island before its discovery by Columbus. According to historians, the native inhabitants of Las Chorreras retained far from favourable memories of the Spanish visitors, who plundered mercilessly and abused the local population in every way, condemning them to slavery while also infecting them with diseases brought from Europe that proved fatal to the islanders. But that is another story, to be recounted later.