Марина Азурева – The French Riviera: A Guide to Festivals, Traditions & the Art of Living Well. Discover the Côte d’Azur All Year Round (страница 3)
13 Christmas desserts? Never heard of them?
The first mention of 13 Christmas desserts can be found in the writings of a priest from Marseille, dating back to 1683, where the concepts of abundance are mentioned. A large number of desserts is a sign of the abundance of peasant families. We first heard about these 13 desserts later, in 1925.
The Aubagne writer Joseph Fallen wrote about them in the newspaper “la pignato”: “Here are your sweets and delicacies, thirteen desserts: you need thirteen, yes, thirteen, no more if you like, but no less.” This tradition was consolidated around 1947. Why 13? This number has religious symbolism, it corresponds to the meal of the Last Supper, which is the last meal of Jesus Christ, held in the company of his 12 apostles, hence the number 13 Tradition dictates that desserts are served on a table surrounded by three candles – the number three symbolizes the Holy Trinity, covered with three white tablecloths. In addition, three saucers with sprouted wheat, sown in advance – on December 4, on the day of St. Barbara, are placed on the table.
13 Christmas desserts should be served at the end of the Christmas meal and left on the table for 3 days. Guests should try all the desserts to show politeness to the host. For 3 days, a Christmas atmosphere will reign in your home. You can invite friends or neighbors and share pleasant moments with them. Here everyone will find something to their taste, so everyone is sure to fall in love with one or more desserts. This warm atmosphere will be complemented by the aroma of oranges, which will perfectly match the smell of your Christmas tree.
Christmas desserts may vary depending on the region; in total, there are about 50 options. They include fruits (dried and fresh), nuts, sweet pastries, candies and even exotic fruits. An essential component of thirteen desserts are the so-called “four beggars” (French: quatre mendiants or Ox. pachichòis) – fruits and nuts symbolizing the four mendicant monastic orders. The color of each of them is associated with the color of the cassock of the monks of the corresponding order: nuts (walnuts or hazelnuts) symbolize the Augustinians; dried figs – Franciscans; almonds – Carmelites; light raisins – Dominicans. Nowadays, the word “mendiant” also refers to a confectionery product – a chocolate disc decorated with the appropriate ingredients.
Across France, the quintessential Christmas dessert is the bûche de Noël, or Yule log. Each pâtisserie, in its creative pursuit, crafts both classic log-shaped cakes and exotic variations. Annually, around three million of these cakes are sold nationwide during Christmas.
Holiday tables are adorned with bouquets of fresh flowers, and contemporary designs often feature orchid arrangements. Orchids are also used to create Christmas wreaths, encircling four candles.
At Christmas markets, roasted chestnuts are a popular treat. It’s important to note that these are edible chestnuts, distinct from the inedible horse chestnuts found elsewhere. They’re roasted over wood fires in large cauldrons. The taste of roasted chestnuts resembles that of slightly sweetened potatoes, a sweetness resulting from slight frost exposure before roasting.
Chestnuts are also transformed into chestnut paste, spread on bread or incorporated into dessert recipes. Additionally, candied chestnuts (marrons glacés) are crafted through a month-long, labor-intensive process in pâtisseries, making them a delicacy priced at about one euro per piece. These treats are packaged in small boxes containing six to eight chestnuts, aligning with the modest French dessert portions. In a country where even festive tables aren’t laden with excessive dishes, serving one chestnut per guest means a box suffices for a gathering of six.
Every major holiday, esteemed restaurants curate special menus featuring delicacies. These menus are displayed on posters at the entrance and on the establishment’s website well in advance – about three weeks before Christmas and a week before smaller holidays like Mother’s Day. Reservations commence accordingly. A festive dinner in a good restaurant typically costs around 60 euros, while in moderately upscale establishments, prices can reach 160 euros. These are the rates in Nice; in Cannes, it’s more expensive, and in Monaco, significantly higher.
In Nice, at Place Masséna, the statue of Apollo (standing as tall as a four-story building) in the Fountain of the Sun is dressed in Père Noël (Santa Claus) attire. The entire fountain is enclosed within a transparent dome, inside which artificial snowflakes swirl through the air.
As early as October, major toy retailers begin distributing 200-page toy catalogs, both through mailboxes and in supermarkets. These catalogs are designed for children to select the toys they’d like Santa Claus to place under the Christmas tree or by the fireplace. Naturally, parents can also discreetly observe their children’s wishes or gently guide them to align with the family budget.
In particularly creative households, children cut out pictures of desired toys from these catalogs and include them in their letters to Santa. Special mailboxes for Santa’s letters are set up in various parts of the city during December.
Starting in October, Advent calendars for children become available. These calendars feature 25 windows, each hiding a small gift, usually a candy or chocolate. Children begin opening these windows on December 1st, counting down to Christmas Day on the 25th, when they receive their main Christmas gifts.
There are also Advent calendars tailored for adults, created by cosmetic companies, breweries, and chocolate manufacturers.
Closer to the New Year, the mail carrier will knock on every door, offering the opportunity to purchase a Postal Calendar. This tradition allows postal workers to earn a little extra for their own holiday celebrations. If you’re home, it’s customary to buy a calendar. There’s no fixed price, but if you’ve lived in the area for a year, receive a lot of mail, and are satisfied with the service, it’s typical to give around 15 euros. If you’ve been there less than a year or have less interaction, 10 euros is acceptable.
Before or after the mail carrier’s visit, members of the Fire Service, traditionally referred to as Firefighters in France, will come by with their own calendar from their department. The postal calendar might include a city map, a few recipes, and gardening tips. In contrast, the firefighters’ calendar often features monthly photos of their colleagues posing seminude in a Schwarzenegger-issue style.
If your building has a concierge, it’s customary to give them a financial gift in appreciation of their work.
For Christmas, nativity scenes are set up at churches. A notable example is the nativity scene in the old quarter, depicting the birth of Jesus in a stable, surrounded by animals and the Magi bearing gifts. All figures and the stable itself are life-sized, illuminated in the evening, and some are even animated.
New Year’s Day (Jour de l’An)
New Year’s Eve in France is all about gathering with family and friends for a lavish dinner featuring oysters, foie gras, champagne, and other delicacies. At midnight, fireworks light up the sky, people kiss under mistletoe, and exchange heartfelt wishes of
Epiphany January 6th
Families share
On Epiphany, it’s customary to enjoy puff pastry cakes with fillings such as almond or fruit, each containing a hidden figurine. The person who finds the figurine in their slice is crowned the king or queen of the evening, with a paper crown provided alongside the cake for the coronation. These figurines range from simple, mass-produced designs to artisanal creations crafted by local artisans.
Collecting the
Monte-Carlo International Circus Festival (January)
Monaco is not just a glamorous destination known for its luxury casinos and yachts; it is also home to some of the world’s most prestigious sporting and cultural events. Each year, the tiny principality hosts elite competitions, exclusive galas, and breathtaking festivals that attract global attention. From the high-speed thrills of Formula 1 to the elegance of princely charity balls, Monaco is a hub of sophistication and excitement.
Monte-Carlo International Circus Festival
Acrobats, clowns, tightrope walkers, and animal trainers compete for the coveted