Лиззи Остром – Парфюм. История ароматов XX века (страница 62)

Veillon, Dominique, Fashion Under the Occupation, trans. Miriam Kochan, Berg, 2002.

Daphne du Maurier, Rebecca, Victor Gollancz, 1938.

Eric Baume, “Perfume”, Britannia and Eve magazine, October 1943.

О романтической прозе: Jennifer McKnight-Trontz, The Look of Love: The Art of the Romance Novel, Princeton Architectural Press, 2002; Tania Modleski, Loving with a Vengeance: Mass-Produced Fantasies for Women, 2nd edn, Routledge, 2007.

О черном рынке и контрабанде: «Lifetime Perfume Proved Short-Lived», New York Times, 21 November 1944.

Ответы на вопросы о дефиците парфюма: «Perfume???», Vogue, American

edition, November 1942.

О повышении спроса на парфюм в США: «Shoppers Here Breaking Sales Records, With All Types of Goods in Heavy Demand», New York Times, 16 December 1944.

О переговорах по поводу снятия блокады: «Release is Sought of Perfume Bases», New York Times, 9 June 1941.

Martha Parker, «Beauty: New Perfumes», New York Times, 28 February 1943.

О попытках выращивания парфюмерного сырья в США: «U.S. Is Developing Oils For Perfume», New York Times, 11 April 1942.

О популярности саше: “Powder Perfumes Gain in Popularity”, New York Times, 31 May 1944; “Dry Perfume”, Tide: The Newsmagazine of Advertising and Marketing, 15 August 1944.

О создании парфюма Femme: Michael Edwards, Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances, Michael Edwards & Co., 1996.

О мастерской Rochas в послевоенные годы: Alice K. Perkins, Paris

Couturiers and Milliners, Fairchild Publications, 1949.

Herman De Bachelle Seebold, Old Louisiana Plantation Homes and Family Trees, Pelican Press, 1941.

Tennessee Williams, A Streetcar Named Desire, New Directions, 1947.

История Грэнвилла и Свортаута: Percy Knauth, “How to Sell a Smell”, LIFE, 4 December 1950.

Об автомобиле, разбрызгивавшем ароматы Angelique: Bett Adams, «Black Satin’s Coming!» The Miami News, 2 February 1952.

О переезде Свортаута на Виргинские острова: «Swartouts Retire to V.I.», Sunday Herald, 29 September 1957.

О проблемах фирмы с налоговым ведомством: «Took Whiff of Stock: SEC Got on Scent of Perfume Maker», Sunday Herald, 3 May 1959.

О рекламной стратегии Клода Марсана: «Speaking of Pictures… Frenchman Demonstrates Correct Way to Make Love», LIFE, 20 January 1947.

Некоторые письма читательниц Клоду Марсану: LIFE, 10 February 1947.

О том, как мужчины вынуждали Клода Марсана покинуть город: «Texans World’s Worst Lovers? Unwed Frenchman Says We Are», El Paso Herald-Post, 29 August 1947.

Об аресте Клода Марсана: «Police Disrupt Love Class, Hold Teacher», The Salt Lake Tribune, 21 November 1948.

«Expert» Asserts Love is Relative», The Monroe News-Star, 4 February 1949.

Claude Marsan’s response to the verdict: “Letters to the Editors”, LIFE, 21 February 1949.

Корпоративная история Bay Rum: http://www.stjohnsbayrum.com/pages/three-generations-of-st-johns-bay-rum, accessed 1 May 2015.

Мнения о влиянии «сухого закона» на экспорт: «West Indies Welcome Rum Trade Revival», The Literary Digest, 17 February 1934; Ray Lyman Wilbur and William Atherton Du Puy, Conservation in the Department of the Interior, United States Government Printing Office, 1931; Modification or Repeal of National Prohibition: Hearings, Seventy-Second Congress, First Session, 2 Volumes, US Government Print Office, 1932.

Оригинальная упаковка Уэбба для Bay Rum была запатентована после иска к конкуренту в 1962 году: The Virgin Islands Daily News, 3 July 1962.

Обсуждение потребностей молодежи и зарождающейся подростковой культуры: Maureen Daly (ed.), Profile of Youth: By Members of the Staff of the Ladies’ Home Journal, Lippincott, 1951.

Virginia Pope, «New Perfume has Impressive Debut», New York Times, 28 March 1945.

О создании L’Air du Temps и влиянии аромата на другие парфюмы: Robert R. Calkin and J. Stephan Jellinek, Perfumery: Practice and Principles, John Wiley & Sons, 1994.

О роковой женщине в «черных» фильмах: Julie Grossman, Rethinking the Femme Fatale in Film Noir: Ready for Her Close-Up, Palgrave Macmillan, 2009; William Luhr, Film Noir, Wiley-Blackwell, 2012; Alain Silver et al. (eds), Film Noir: The Encyclopedia, 4th edn, Gerald Duckworth & Co., 2010.

Billy Wilder and Raymond Chandler (screenplay), Double Indemnity, Paramount Pictures, 1944.

О парфюме в детективах о Филипе Марлоу: Raymond Chandler, The Big Sleep, Alfred A. Knopf, 1939; Raymond Chandler, The Lady in the Lake, Alfred A. Knopf, 1943.

Элегантные пятидесятые: 1950–1959

Abrams, Nathan, and Hughes, Julie, Containing America: Cultural Production and Consumption in 50s America, Bloomsbury Academic, 2005.

Jones, Darryl et al. (eds), It Came from the 1950s! Popular Culture, Popular Anxieties, Palgrave Macmillan, 2011.

Mort, Frank, Capital Affairs: London and the Making of the Permissive Society, Yale University Press, 2010.

Palmer, Alexandra, Couture and Commerce: The Transatlantic Fashion Trade in the 1950s, University of British Columbia Press, 2001.

Reed, Paula, Fifty Fashion Looks that Changed the 1950s, Conran, 2012.

Spigel, Lynn, Welcome to the Dreamhouse: Popular Media and Postwar Suburbs, Duke University Press, 2001.

О росте расходов на рекламу: http://adage.com/article/adageencyclopedia/history-1950s/98701/, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

The Economist, 21 April 1956, cited in Elizabeth Wilson, Women and the Welfare State, Routledge, 2002.

Реклама парфюмов Prince Matchabelli в Spokane Daily Chronicle, 20 December 1957.

«Glove Etiquette, compliments of Paris Gloves», at: http://www.retrowaste.com/1950s/fashion-in-the-1950s/1950s-gloves-etiquette-styles-trendspictures/, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons, Cassell, 1964.

О росте пригородов в Америке в 1950-е годы: Dianne Harris, Second Suburb: Levittown, Pennsylvania, University of Pittsburgh Press, 2010.

О бытовой технике 1950-х годов: Diane Boucher, The 1950s American Home, Shire, 2013; Kathryn Ferry, The 1950s Kitchen, Shire, 2011.

Hal Boyle, “Big City Cocktail Party Great Place for Study of Animal Life!”, Moberly Monitor-Index, 26 September 1953.

Анализ Леса Бакстера и музыкальных трендов: Philip Hayward, Widening the Horizon: Exoticism in Post-War Popular Music, John Libbey Publishing, 1997.

Об этикете коктейльных вечеринок: Joseph Russell Lynes, A Surfeit of Honey: On Contemporary American Manners and Customs, Harper, 1957.

Paul Gauguin, Noa Noa: The Tahitian Journal, trans. O.F. Theis, Nicholas L. Brown, 1919.

Helen Rubinstein advertisement for Noa Noa, featured in Vogue, American edition, 15 November 1954.

June Owen, “New Party Service Features Everything That’s Hawaiian, New York Times, 9 June 1955.

Об истории британского общества в 1950-х годах: David Kynaston, Family Britain, 1951—57 (Tales of a New Jerusalem), Bloomsbury, 2010; Virginia Nicholson, Perfect Wives in Ideal Homes: The Story of Women in the 1950s, Viking, 2015.

Об увеличении количества автомобилей в Британии: http://www.vads.ac.uk/learning/designingbritain/html/crd_cultrev.html, посещение 2 мая 2015 г.

Об истории Юлиуса Саманна: Hilary Greenbaum and Dana Rubinstein, “Who Made Those Little Trees Air Fresheners?”, New York Times Magazine, 2 March 2012.

Об исках компании Car-Freshner в отношении конкурентов: http://www.worldipreview.com/article/norway-court-rules-in-air-freshener-case, посещение 11 мая 2015 г.

John Cheever, «The Chimera», The New Yorker, 1 July 1961.

«Vogue’s Perfume Coloring Book», Vogue, American edition, 15 November 1962.

George Gobel, “How to Take Command at the Perfume Counter”, Vogue, American edition, December 1957.

Советы мужьям при покупке парфюма: «Perfume Investment Guide for Men», Vogue, American edition, December 1958.

О жизни Кристиана Диора: Marie France Pochna, Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New, Arcade Publishing, 1996.